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Old 01-10-2009, 03:08 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Coolant and Test Strip Article


Cooling system maintenance
The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible for the coolant to cavitate --produce tiny bubbles--that can with time cause pinholes through the cylinder walls from the water jackets. For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the level of DCA4 in the system, and then you add the amount as required. The cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area with especially alkaline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol coolants in any of their vehicles.
Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze (does not require SCA/DCA)
Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water)
Zerex Heavy Duty Pre-charged Formula
Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
Fleetguard Complete EG--pre-charged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
Fleet Charge Antifreeze/Coolant--pre-charged with Pencool


One of the most common asked questions requarding test strips and how much coolant additive is required to raise the additive to a safe level. This depends on the capacity of the coolant system. Another piece of useful information is that each 1 pint bottle of additive is equal to 5 units.
Fleetguard considers the safe level to be between 1.5 & 2.5 The reason we recommend adding UP TO 2.5 is to help ensure that by the next time you check your coolant it will still be between these levels. Since not everybody maintains their vehicle in the same manner we recommend the HIGH end of the SAFEST LEVEL of 2.5. This has apparently confused some which is why we have added this statement.
For an example on getting your level to the HIGH end of the SAFE LEVEL 2.5
My Friends 99 Ford Powerstroke has a capacity of 32.75 quarts or 8.2 gallons. To figure out how many units 1 pint of additive will raise the coolant level, divide the 5 units by the capacity in gallons (8.2) 5 divided by 8.2 = .61, this tells you that each pint of additive will raise the coolant level .6. If your current level is 1.8 and you wish to reach a level of 2.5 you would need to add 2 pints (2 x .6 = 1.2, 1.2 + 1.8 = 2.5)
To assist you in getting the Ph level close to the nuetral level of 7.0 Ph try adding 16oz of Plain White Vinagur and run for a day or two and then chech your Ph again.
1996 RED Ram, 2WD, GOERENDS Auto, timing at 16.5*, #100 plate, 300 Injectors, 365hp 833tq, 28' Dutchmen fifth wheel, and a 16' boat behind that!
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:26 PM
PATRIOT1 PATRIOT1 is offline
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Thats why i use a coolant filter treated with the additive in it then i swap them out with a regular coolant filter. Go to napa and for 20 bucks you get the additive in it. I change mine out every 3 months back and forth so this way i can get as much crap out of it. Mine came with one and you could eat off the inside of my radiator!
1987 Chevy P-30 Box Truck Dana 80 rear
1990 Cummins 5.9 Allison 4 Speed
Water Heated fuel filter/ 110 plug in with 100 watt heater element built in
Water filter with dry chemical
8.9Liter Block heater adapted to the lower water outlet
Magnetic 300 watt heater on gas tank to keep the 50 gallons from clouding and jelling up.
Glacier heater grid delete
HX-40 turbo 4 inch exhaust 35 pounds of boost
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:22 PM
Fueling Around Fueling Around is offline
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Maintenance (actually lack of) is one of the reasons Ford changed to Extended Life Coolant (ELC).
Cat changed a couple years ago. I expect Cummins to switch this year.
1997 CTD; 2wd; auto; red;stock
except for select maintenance items such as Goerend transmission, VB, & triple converter
"It is amazing what you can accomplish if you do not care who gets the credit." - Harry S. Truman"
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:34 PM
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Bill v-o Bill v-o is offline
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Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol coolants in any of their vehicles.

Wonder why that is? I switch everything I own over to the amsoil version of propylene glycol.

Don't forget distilled water is the 2nd best water to use, best choice is reverse osmosis water to use for mixing coolant with.
Just trying to quench my intellectual thirst for knowledge. http://www.infowars.com/
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:56 PM
Fueling Around Fueling Around is offline
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Propylene glycol is less effective at heat transfer than ethylene glycol. All the new emission engines have such a high heat rejection that propylene glycol can cause problems.

Distilled water is best IF it has been de-ionized. RO systems can pass junk, too.

NEVER EVER use condensate water from your dehumidifier or A/C system. The aluminum fins on the evaporator coil makes the water more ion active than tap water.
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:33 PM
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Ben Ben is offline
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I only ran Fleetguard complete or CAT antifreeze in my old Powerstroke.

That took care of the SCA requirements.....
99 2wd 2500 RCSB
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:53 PM
Fueling Around Fueling Around is offline
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Were you been? (OK bad attempt at humour.)

Pre-charged coolant/antifreeze is only good for about 12 months of normal use before it must be tested and recharged.

You can test DCA (Pencool) with any strips. SCA (Fleetguard) must be tested with Fleetguard strips due to unique formula.
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